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Food & Beverages

July 2008

Liquid Gold

Russians are besotted by all things Italian. But will they swallow its beer? Boyd Farrow reports.

For most of the Chelsea supporters who travelled to Russia in May for the Champions League final, it was the trip of a lifetime. But one diehard fan and marketing executive, Chris Taylor, may spend as much time mid-air between London and Moscow this year as Roman Abramovich.

While President Putin is keen for Russian companies to expand abroad with as much fanfare as the Chelsea owner, many more international operators are still piling into Russia. Moscow’s hotels are as crammed with how-to shindigs for rouble-chasing entrepreneurs as the city’s upscale shops are with leather and scents from Paris and Milan.

But the profits to be made in Russia’s new boutiques are small beer compared with potential windfalls for international brewers. Despite its modest 19% share of the country’s alcohol consumption, Russia’s beer market is one of the world’s fastest growing, fuelled by higher wages and the West’s growing influence. Compounded growth was 7.5% between 2002 and 2006 and sales nudged $3.4bn in 2007, placing the country behind only the US and China. Premium-priced Western brands comprise the market’s fastest growing segment, beams Chris Taylor, who is the international brand director of Italian label Peroni Nastro Azzurro.

Peroni’s parent, South Africa’s SABMiller, is eyeing Russia, and its 140 million inhabitants, with Napoleonic lust– especially since commodity costs continue to rise and sales in Europe and North and South America slow. The brewer is the world’s largest, valued at €25bn, yet its share of the Russian market is just 6%. Denmark’s Carlsberg will account for 38% once the $15.2bn joint takeover of UK’s Scottish & Newcastle with the Netherlands’ Heineken is completed. Carlsberg will then control Baltic Beverages Holding, owner of Baltika, Russia’s leading beer with a 10.5% market share.

Yet SABMiller, which recently has been linked to a bid for Anheuser-Busch (famous for Budweiser) is not aiming for volume in Russia; it is gunning for the niches. The premium sector represents just 10% of beer sold in Russia yet accounts for 17% of its value. Indeed, SABMiller which has just seen full-year revenues rise 16% even though unit growth is slowing, claims that the volume of its premium beers in Russia – which include Pilsner Urquell and Miller Genuine Draft – rose 14% in the year to 31 March.

Peroni’s Russian launch is its highest profile launch in 2008, during which SABMiller is spending $50m on marketing the beer worldwide. As a new generation of high earning 25-35-year-old Russians is already gaga over Italian fashion, food, motorcars and ski resorts, this seems like a no-brainer. The strategy is to focus on the first generation of upscale bars where a bottle of Peroni will cost RUB150-250 (€4-€6.75).

The challenge, notes Taylor, is to push the product’s “heritage” and “exclusivity” – to steal drinkers from other high-end brands such as Corona – without overplaying the “fashion” card. While Taylor enthuses that “Russians who have drunk Peroni in London or Milan associate it with sophistication”, he is aware that in countries where there is no beer-drinking tradition, there is fickleness.

SABMiller will later import other premium brands into Russia, including its recent pick up Grolsch (once it acquires the local licence), and it aims to acquire and reposition local brews. Although local brands dominate the territory, all but one brewery belongs to multinationals. SABMiller owns a brewery outside Moscow and is building another near the Urals. While this reduces shipping costs, for now, extra cash is being spent on upping production in Italy while “getting Peroni served in the right bars”.

The campaign to crack Russia, however, dovetails with Peroni’s one of aligning the brand with aspirational Italians, such as chefs or fashion designers – via product placements, endorsements and other collaborations – and with events deemed trendsetting such as London Fashion Week. Other stunts have included displaying the bottle on a plinth in an otherwise empty boutique on London’s Sloane Street. Such activity has paid off: Peroni has performed well in both emerging and mature beer markets and SAB says that sales outside of Italy grew 72% in the last year; sales were up between 20% and 30% in the UK in the first three months of 2008.

Peroni’s latest collaborator is fashion designer Antonio Berardi, British-born but of Italian stock, who is developing a luggage range. Obligingly, the designer appeared at Peroni’s Russian April launch in Moscow’s Arsenal Gallery, a cavernous, exposedbrickwork venue. Guests, who could have been Big Brother winners, whooped at the floorshow that accompanied images such as an Anita Ekberg lookalike cavorting in the Trevi fountain, an homage to Fellini’s classic film La Dolce Vita.

This iconography, successful in Peroni marketing campaigns worldwide, is a godsend for heavily regulated Russia, where people or animals cannot appear in TV commercials. SABMiller’s Redd’s, an apple-flavoured beer aimed at women, is presented as a starbursting fruit juice; Kozel, meaning ‘goat’– an imported Czech brew, is a far flatter affair.

Speaking at the launch party, Berardi said he is interested in designing glassware and bar fittings for Peroni. He would also like a shot at directing commercials: “Just about everything is to play for really.” Which pretty much sums up the Russian beer market.

GETTING A HEAD IN RUSSIA
Russia’s beer market consists of around 1,400 brands. Beers sell for around RUB30- 120 (€0.80-€3.25) from street kiosks and supermarkets. At-home consumption remains dominant, compared to Western Europe but in big cities more “destination” bars are opening, such as the one beneath fashion designer Denis Simachev’s shop (below). Rosstat, the Russian statistics agency, says average real wages and disposable income rose by 16.2% and 12.9%, respectively during the first nine months of 2007. Average monthly wages rose to US$497 (a 31% leap) in the first nine months of 2007, in part reflecting the rouble’s rise against the dollar. The World Bank estimates that Russian’s average monthly wages may have topped $520. Though Russians are drinking more, they are not spending more on vodka. The cheapest half-litre bottle sells for RUB70 (€1.90). Local wines cost from RUB100 (€2.70) per 75cl bottle and imported wine cost from RUB200 (€5.45). Whisky is RUB800-1000 (€22-€27) a bottle.




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